Gursha: A Culinary Bridge Across Diaspora, Heritage, and Community

Chef, entrepreneur, and cookbook author Beejhy Barhany has long used food as a bridge between cultures. Her new cookbook, "Gursha," celebrates Ethiopian, Sudanese, Yemenite, Jewish, and African American culinary traditions, reflecting her journey from Ethiopia to Israel to Harlem, New York. Each dish tells a story of migration, resilience, and the interconnectedness of Jewish and African diasporas.

The book's title, "Gursha," refers to the Ethiopian tradition of feeding one another by hand in a small but profound act of love, respect, and community. In Barhany's hands, gursha is more than a gesture; it's a philosophy. Through her recipes, she invites readers to share food as well as stories, history, and connection, one bite at a time.

Recently, Barhany made the difficult decision to close her beloved Tsion Café for day-to-day dining following persistent antisemitic and anti-Zionist harassment. While the closure marks a painful chapter, Barhany remains committed to her mission, pivoting to focus on Shabbat dinners and cultural immersion events that educate guests on the flavors of the Jewish Diaspora.

"When I wrote 'Gursha,' I realized my story isn't just Ethiopian; it's the story of movement, adaptation, and finding family wherever we land," she says. Yemenite flavors were inspired by conversations with Dr. Ephraim Isaac, highlighting historical connections between Ethiopia and Yemen, including culinary parallels such as injera (Ethiopian fermented flatbread) and lachuch (Yemenite flatbread). Sudanese influences reflect her family's journey before arriving in Israel, while African American traditions echo her 25 years in Harlem, where Tsion Café occupied the former space of Jimmy's Chicken Shack, a historic site of cultural connection.

"I am not only Ethiopian - I am Ethiopian, Israeli, New Yorker, American. Why not embrace and share as many dishes and stories from the diaspora as possible?" Barhany says. "Gursha" embodies this universal approach, offering readers a chance to connect with traditions, resilience, and cultural pride.

Ethiopian Jewish culture contributes profoundly to the broader Jewish mosaic. Practices like Sabbath observance, dietary laws, and the celebration of Sigd (an ancient ritual of covenant renewal and thanksgiving) link contemporary Jews to biblical times. Through "Gursha" and her work with Tsion Café, Barhany demonstrates how food transmits these values through the ritual of gursha, which fosters connection and respect across generations and communities.

Barhany's culinary philosophy is rooted in both tradition and adaptability. Recipes like red lentil stew and Shabbat dabo bread carry centuries of history, while modern interpretations such as Ethiopian-spiced fish tacos make these traditions accessible to a wider audience. Her berbere spice blend, an 18-spice mix central to Ethiopian cuisine, exemplifies this balance of authenticity and innovation.

At Tsion Café, Barhany created a space where Ethiopian, Israeli, and Harlem identities met on a plate. By sharing these flavors, she fosters dialogue between communities, showing how food can unite rather than divide.

"Feeding someone gursha is an act of vulnerability and connection," she says. "It transforms strangers into friends, one bite at a time."

Through the Beta Israel of North America Cultural Foundation, Barhany educates and amplifies Ethiopian Jewish voices across North America, ensuring that traditions, history, and culture are preserved. While Tsion Café will no longer be open to the public, her mission lives on through "Gursha," cooking classes, and cultural programming.

"I want people to know the roots, heritage, and resilience of our community," she says. "Once you have that strong foundation, you can celebrate diversity and create universal acceptance."

To bring the spirit of gursha to your own table, here is a recipe for messer wot (red lentil stew), one of Barhany's signature dishes from her new cookbook.