The Power of KosherSoul: Exploring Black-Jewish Cuisines

Food has the unique ability to bring people together. Michael Twitty's concept of fusing Jewish and African Atlantic diasporic cuisines is compelling. Twitty’s fusion, dubbed “KosherSoul,” touches on how food informs memory and identity. An author, culinary historian, and food writer, Twitty has made it his mission to explore the intersections of Black and Jewish cuisines by highlighting food’s power to celebrate shared heritage.

Jewish food played a significant role in Twitty’s identity, sparked by his introduction to challah, which his mother would make. Twitty’s multicultural neighborhood exposed him to a wide range of cuisines, broadening his perspective and allowing him to view food through a global lens. This sparked a curiosity that would eventually become a lifelong passion. 

As he delved deeper into the world of Jewish cuisine, Twitty began to realize the diversity that existed within the community. From the spicy stews of Ethiopian Jews to the rich pastries of Ashkenazi Jews, each dish tells a story of its own. 

At The Nosher’s Jewish food festival this summer, Twitty noted that food provides comfort, especially for marginalized groups: “When you’re marginalized or oppressed, food makes you feel like someone loves you...that you still have a place where you and spirits, your creator, your family, the living, and the dead, all have a purpose in your life.”

As a Black Jewish man, Twitty was deeply interested in exploring the intersections of Black and Jewish cuisines. He began to experiment with traditional Jewish dishes by incorporating African American flavors to create something entirely new. The result was what he calls, KosherSoul, a unique blend of Jewish and Soul food that is familiar, yet innovative. Dishes such as matzo ball gumbo soup and brisket with collard greens are a testament to food’s power of bringing people together.

Twitty's work is also about celebrating shared heritage and challenging traditional notions of identity. "We are in the same boat with different stops," he quipped, citing the shared experiences of those in the Jewish and African diasporas. Twitty believes that, by exploring this shared heritage, we can gain a deeper understanding of each other. "There is a West African proverb that says if you eat my food, you will know who I am," he told Reform Judaism. "It's important to sit with a culture bearer, ask questions and learn where the food comes from and what stories it tells. The food on its own doesn't do the work. We do the work together of mutual understanding."

He continued, "Our food brings people together, and it makes people feel nourished, whether it’s good or not... there’s this thing in Black American households and in American Jewish households (including Black Jewish households) – someone will inevitably say ‘taste this, it’s terrible... Eat it, it’s nasty.’ Why do we have to ingest our oppression as Blacks and Jews?"

"When you have these complicated histories of exile, return, harm, and blessing, you need to understand the delicious from the not delicious, the good from bad, and appreciate them on a sensory level – we do that on Pesach – we eat the bitter with the sweet," he added.

In his book, "KosherSoul," Twitty shares recipes for Jewish and Black holidays, highlighting where the cultures intersect: “We can blend traditions, celebrating shared heritage through food and identity,” he said. 

Twitty argues that there is good reason to rethink separation between identity-driven hate. Racism and antisemitism should not be considered separate domains, but rather interconnected aspects of peoplehood, he asserted. He emphasized that identity extends beyond genetics, religion, or sexuality, it encompasses cultural, social, and communal experiences. "It's about peoplehood. African American is not my phenotype. I didn't have to be a Black chef... Black is a cultural thing... there is 'skinfolk,' then there is kinfolk." Similarly, he noted, "Jewish is a peoplehood. Jewish is not my church. It’s my people – my mishpacha."

According to Twitty, the future of Jewish cuisine is vibrant. His cooking approach is improvisational, like jazz, yet rooted in tradition, like midrashMidrashמִדְרָשׁRabbinic interpretation of a passage from the Bible. Midrash falls into two categories: midrash halachah is concerned with religious practice and law, and midrash aggadah is concerned with interpreting biblical narratives and stories, . By embracing improvisation, diversity, and intersectionality, we can create innovation that is rooted in tradition. “Judaism has always been a dance between tradition and change... Black people have been Jews in some form or another for quite some time and the message of my work is that this is our body of foodlore, just as AshkenaziAshkenazאַשְׁכְּנַזLit. "Germany"; includes Jews of European origin. , Mizrahi MizrachiמִזְרָחִיJews who come from Middle Eastern backgrounds. or SephardiSephardiסְפָרַדִּי Jews who come from Spanish backgrounds and from lands around the Mediterranean Sea. Jews have theirs.” By capturing and preserving tradition and innovation simultaneously, the possibilities are endless.